Calibration Failed Check the Axis Again Prusa

  1. Ensure the hotend has cooled down and turn off the printer. Place a sheet of paper on your heated bed. Remove any residual filament coming out of the nozzle. Center your extruder on the X axis. Move it down by rotating both the Z lead screws at the same time. Move the extruder down until the nozzle is just touching the paper.

    • Ensure the hotend has cooled down and turn off the printer.

    • Place a sheet of paper on your heated bed. Remove whatsoever residual filament coming out of the nozzle.

    • Eye your extruder on the X axis. Move it down by rotating both the Z lead screws at the same fourth dimension. Move the extruder down until the nozzle is just touching the newspaper.

    • Stop when the nozzle is just touching the paper.

    • Place the middle section of a nada necktie under the Pinda.

    • Loosen the M3x10 spiral and gently move the PINDA downward until it is touching the zip tie.

    • Tighten the M3x10 screw to secure the PINDA in place.

  2. Plugin and turn on the printer. Using the screen menu, move the X axis up until it crashes in to the Z tops. The stepper motors will skip. making a noise - this will not damage the motors.

    • Plugin and turn on the printer.

    • Using the screen menu, motion the X centrality up until it crashes in to the Z tops. The stepper motors will skip. making a dissonance - this will not damage the motors.

    • Using the screen menu, move the X axis downwards until the nozzle is approximately x-15mm from the heated bed.

  3. If you have applied tension to the belt, unscrew the belt tensioner on x_end_idler until the belt is relaxed. Loosen the screws which secure the trapezoidal nuts. This is to ensure that the Trapezoidal nuts 'self-centre' on the lead screws. Make sure the trapezoidal nuts are moving freely.

    • If you accept applied tension to the belt, unscrew the belt tensioner on x_end_idler until the belt is relaxed.

    • Loosen the screws which secure the trapezoidal nuts. This is to ensure that the Trapezoidal nuts 'cocky-centre' on the lead screws.

    • Brand sure the trapezoidal basics are moving freely.

    • Tighten the iv screws alternately (on both sides). Don't apply whatever lateral force on the trapezoidal nuts.

  4. Move the X axis to the middle of the Z axis and shutdown the printer. Tighten the belt until the belt is straight and doesn't sag. Don't tighten too much, you should still be able to pinch the belt with very little force force. Loosen the two pulley set screws a little.

    • Motility the X axis to the middle of the Z axis and shutdown the printer.

    • Tighten the chugalug until the belt is straight and doesn't sag. Don't tighten too much, you should yet be able to pinch the chugalug with very little force strength.

    • Loosen the 2 pulley set screws a petty.

    • Arrange position of the pulley to take the belt centred. You can move the extruder by mitt, to the left and correct, to verify that the chugalug is centred.

    • Tighten the set screws alternately.

    • Verify that the belt is not touching the x_end_motor and that the drive pulley is non touching the X motor.

  5. Grip the X motor shaft with pliers to prevent it moving (grab the flat side of the shaft). Tension the belt, by tightening the screws in the x_end_idler.  Do this while trying to move the extruder to the left or right. The belt should stay straight and should not bow up and skip over the drive pulley teeth. Thread two M3x10 screws in the x_end_idler. Don't tighten them fully yet, it will be done on the next step.

    • Grip the X motor shaft with pliers to prevent it moving (catch the flat side of the shaft). Tension the belt, by tightening the screws in the x_end_idler. Do this while trying to move the extruder to the left or right. The belt should stay straight and should not bow upwards and skip over the drive pulley teeth.

    • Thread two M3x10 screws in the x_end_idler. Don't tighten them fully yet, it will be done on the adjacent footstep.

  6. Adjust both M3x10 screws to have the x_end_idler parallel to the frame. Second image shows when the X axis is too short. In this case you need to tighten the two M3x10 screws. Third image shows when X axis is too long. In this case you need to unscrew the two M3x10 screws.

    • Accommodate both M3x10 screws to have the x_end_idler parallel to the frame.

    • Second image shows when the X axis is too short. In this case you need to tighten the two M3x10 screws.

    • Third image shows when X axis is too long. In this case y'all need to unscrew the ii M3x10 screws.

    • It might happen that with backlog tension on the M3x10 screws, the Z polish rods will commencement to exist off center on the Z tops. In this case release tension even if the x_end_idler is non totally parallel to the frame.

    • Check the side by side stride if y'all accept difficulty to run across if the x_end_idler is parallel to the frame.

  7. If you have difficulty to see if the x_end_idler is parallel to the frame you can use a thick ruler or a square like on the first image. Verify that your Z lead screw is not touching the Z tops holes. If it is touching release the pressure from the X smooth rods tensioning screws like explained in the previous step. Note that Z lead screw does not need to be centered totally, it ca wobble a little.

    • If yous take difficulty to encounter if the x_end_idler is parallel to the frame you can apply a thick ruler or a foursquare like on the start image.

    • Verify that your Z lead screw is not touching the Z tops holes. If it is touching release the pressure level from the X smoothen rods tensioning screws like explained in the previous footstep.

    • Note that Z pb screw does not need to be centered totally, information technology ca wobble a lilliputian.

    • Double check that your belt is still well tensioned. In case it needs adjustment repeat the previous step.

    • For improved reliability and print quality, the Bear extruder is slightly taller than the original MK2.5S/MK3S extruder. We provide customized firmware to pass Selftest and (XY)Z Scale. Afterwards those steps you have the choice to keep using our customized firmware or flash stock firmware. In either instance, y'all utilize our firmware at your own gamble.

    • Select and download the latest Acquit calibration firmware hither: github.com/bear-lab-3d/Prusa-Firmware/re...:

    • MK3S Einsy-Rambo 10a firmware proper name: Bear_Cal_FW***_MK3S-EINSy10a.hex

    • MK2.5S Mini-Rambo 13a firmware proper noun: Bear_Cal_FW***_MK25S-RAMBo13a.zip

    • MK2.5S Mini-Rambo 10a firmware name: Bear_Cal_FW***_MK25S-RAMBo10a.zip

    • MK2.5S firmware comes every bit a Nothing file containing several languages of the firmware. They all contains english. Extract the ZIP file and choose the language you adopt to use (in add-on of english).

    • If y'all don't know which Mini-Rambo board you have, delight refer to this certificate

  8. Get a  USB A to B cable. Connect the USB cable on the  Mini-Rambo / Einsy-Rambo.

    • Get a USB A to B cablevision.

    • Connect the USB cable on the Mini-Rambo / Einsy-Rambo.

    • Connect the other side of the USB cable to your computer that is running PrusaSlicer.

    • We recommend that you lot utilise PrusaSlicer to wink firmware.

    • Plough on the printer.

  9. Start  PrusaSlicer software and go to the top menu Help -> About ... Verify that the slicer version is equal or greater than 2.0.0.

    • Start PrusaSlicer software and get to the meridian menu Help -> Well-nigh ...

    • Verify that the slicer version is equal or greater than 2.0.0.

    • If version is equal or greater: go to the next step

    • If your version is lower: download and install the version shown above from this page: prusa3d.com/prusaslicer.

    • You tin can update to the nigh contempo version, even so, we may not take tested with that version.

  10. Verify that the printer is turned on. Start PrusaSlicer and navigate to the top menu Configuration -> Flash print firmware Select the appropriate Bear calibration firmware *.hex file using the Browse button.

    • Verify that the printer is turned on.

    • Commencement PrusaSlicer and navigate to the meridian menu Configuration -> Flash print firmware

    • Select the advisable Bear scale firmware *.hex file using the Browse button.

    • Verify that the printer is detected in the "Serial port:" window. If not, bank check that the USB cable is firmly connected to both the printer and the computer. select "Rescan"

    • Click the button Wink! to flash the Bear calibration firmware.

    • Never plow off the printer or disconnect the USB cablevision while flashing the firmware!

    • Look until you become a Flashing succeeded! message.

    • In instance of issues while flashing the firmware read the Prusa troubleshooting article.

  11. Turn the printer off and and then on. Run the "Selftest" in calibration settings. If errors occur during selftest, please fix them before going further.

    • Turn the printer off and and then on.

    • Run the "Selftest" in calibration settings.

    • If errors occur during selftest, please fix them before going further.

    • In Settings -> Temperature -> Fan speed set a value at 130 if you print lots of PETG and 255 if yous impress lots of PLA. For other materials select according to your almost used filament.

    • Run PID calibration in calibration settings.

    • Cull a temperature that matches your nigh used printing temperature.

  12. Heat up the nozzle by selecting Settings -> Temperature -> Nozzle: and insert PLA filament.

    • Heat upward the nozzle by selecting Settings -> Temperature -> Nozzle: and insert PLA filament.

    • Make sure you have the steel sheet on the printer.

    • Run Calibration Z. You may repeat the process.

    • Because the extrusion multiplier and filament diameter are not calibrated yet, it will only give a beginning approximation of the offset layer meridian.

    • Nosotros recommend to at present flash back the stock Prusa firmware. The custom firmware is but needed for (XY)Z Scale and Selftest, all other features of the original firmware are working normally. If yous like you can continue to use our custom firmware at your ain adventure.

    • Select and download the latest Prusa firmware here: prusa3d.com/drivers :

    • MK3S Einsy-Rambo 10a firmware proper name: FW_MK3S-EINSy10a.hex

    • MK2.5S Mini-Rambo 13a firmware name: FW_MK25S-RAMBo13a.zip

    • MK2.5SMini-Rambo 10a firmware name: FW_MK25S-RAMBo10a.zip

    • MK2.5S firmware comes as a Zero files containing several languages of the firmware. Extract the Zilch file and choose the language you prefer the nigh.

    • If yous don't know which Mini-Rambo lath you have, please refer to this document

  13. Verify that the printer is turned on and USB connected. Start PrusaSlicer and navigate to the top menu Configuration -> Flash print firmware Select the Bear calibration firmware *.hex file using the Browse button.

    • Verify that the printer is turned on and USB connected.

    • Get-go PrusaSlicer and navigate to the height carte du jour Configuration -> Flash print firmware

    • Select the Bear calibration firmware *.hex file using the Browse button.

    • Verify that the printer is detected in the "Series port:" window. If not, bank check that the USB cable is firmly connected to both the printer and the reckoner. select "Rescan"

    • Click the button Wink! to flash the Bear calibration firmware.

    • Never turn off the printer or disconnect the USB cable while flashing the firmware!

    • Wait until you become a Flashing succeeded! bulletin.

    • In case of problems while flashing the firmware read the Prusa troubleshooting article.

  14. Follow our "Extrusion multiplier" guide here: 8. Extrusion multiplier and filament diameter

    • Follow our "Extrusion multiplier" guide hither: eight. Extrusion multiplier and filament bore

    • Congratulations, you have finished to install and calibrate your Comport extruder.

    • Happy printing :)

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Source: https://guides.bear-lab.com/Guide/5.+Final+adjustments+and+calibration/14

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